Jaisalmer Fort

I have to admit that when I agreed to go to Jaisalmer for Diwali I had no idea what I was going to see there. I had heard from several people that it was well worth the time to visit. I knew there was a fort but that was about it. In my mind I was picturing another empty fort that had been restored and I could explore, wandering into each corner as I desired. I was not at all prepared for the vibrant, busy, packed living fort that Jaisalmer was. A fort that is not a cleaned up preserved historical site, but a glimpse at what it might have been like originally - intricate details on buildings, shops on the ground floor, apartments above. A main square where people still gather and talk. Animals that roam the streets, causing people to scurry out of the way. Canons overlooking the walls, aimed at whatever comes out of the desert. Jaisalmer has a living, breathing fort.

Diwali in Jaisalmer

I took the opportunity of five days off to head to Jaisalmer for the Diwali break. I realized (after a couple of nights of disturbed sleep due to the load bursts of fireworks going off in the middle of the city streets, echoing from the city walls) that this was the first time I had actually spent Diwali in a city that was celebrating it. Usually I head to someplace where I can escape. It was neat though, to see the small traditions that go along with the holiday, and get beyond the overwhelming noise of fireworks that accompany it as well. To see women setting out small oil lamps on their steps to light the night and drive away the darkness of evil spirits. The brightly colored rangoli welcoming the Goddess Lakshmi into homes. The the next morning when I went out early, watching the women carefully shaping mud into designs in front of their doorsteps, adding an incense stick, some rice, flowers or other items to show their wishes for the coming year. Then later, admiring the fancy dress as people took the day to visit their families. Yes, Jaisalmer got a bit crowded with Indian tourists for the holiday, but I am glad that I had the opportunity to see some of the small traditions that accompany the five days celebration.

Viewing the Matrimandir

While staying in Pondicherry we took a half day to go out to the town of Auroville, an intentional living community which is focused on developing human unity. According to the website "Auroville is recognised as the first and only internationally endorsed ongoing experiment in human unity and transformation of consciousness, also concerned with - and practically researching into - sustainable living and the future cultural, environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind." A living community that is founded on the beliefs of the Mother, influenced by Sri Aurobindo's philosophy.

For people visiting Auroville on a day trip the highlight is the walk out to the center of the community to overlook the Matrimandir. Before being allowed to walk out you are required to watch a 10 minute video which outlines some of the beliefs that are encapsulated by this community and by the Matrimandir in particular. As a focal point for meditation, containing a large man made crystal ball in its center and meditation rooms around the outside, it is a space for those who are willing to renounce all religions to take the time to connect to the diving consciousness. 

In the words of the Mother:

"The Matrimandir represents the Divine Consciousness. All that is not said, but that is the way it is."

"Matrimandir is here to teach people that it is not by escaping from the world while ignoring it, that they will realise the Divine in life. Matrimandir must be the symbol of this Truth. I don't want it to be made into a religion; with all my force I refuse. We don't want dogmas, principles, ritual, absolutely not, absolutely not."

As a day visitor we only reached a point where we could overlook the impressive spherical structure that is modeled after a lotus in bloom. Taking in the sense of focus and peace that it contributes to the community while appreciating the unique architecture of the Matrimandir.

Relaxing in Pondicherry

It has been a busy start to the school year here in Delhi. In fact I still feel like I'm getting my feet under me, and we've already finished six weeks. I have a feeling this year is going to fly by! All of this made taking advantage of a three day long weekend all the more important. Where to go? I'm starting to have to dig a bit deeper in order to find destinations that make sense with just three days. This time I headed out to the town of Pondicherry, a small French colonial town about 2 hours south of Chennai in Tamil Nadu.

There isn't a whole lot to do in Pondicherry, rather it is one of the places that you just go to relax. Maybe take a stroll along the Promenade Beach. Check out some of the crumbling French architecture. Rest in a restored colonial building turned into a luxury hotel. Eat some amazing seafood. Rest. Read. Relax. Exactly what I needed for the weekend.

Why did the cow cross the road?

Sometimes I think the joke here should be "Why did the cow cross the road?" Possibly the best answer would be "to stop traffic." Other possibilities include:

because it could

to get to the garbage pile

to add an obstacle to the road

because it thought someone had food for it

because there is less traffic in the middle

because it was time to wander home

all the other cows were going there

to test driver's reactions

It believed in free range grazing

I wonder how many others I could come up with?

A daily activity in Thimphu

Mom and I headed to Bhutan for spring break, and since I just got done sorting through the 1,000+ photos I took in a week, I'm not quite up to writing fully about it. So I thought that you might enjoy a look at what is a daily activity for many people in Thimphu: walking around the National Memorial Chorten (at least three times). I'm not going to say the video is good, it's a bit rough as I was walking and trying to be unobtrusive, but I think it will give you a sense of why mom and I found this a relaxing yet intriguing location to get out and move. So much so that we visited every day we were in the capital.

If the video doesn't load you can see it here.

The National Memorial Chorten was built in 1974 to honor the third king and is the location where many locals will stop on their way to or from work and school in order to take a few rounds of walking and prayers. Some of the older men and women spend the majority of the day there, socializing between their prayers. Little kids jump and run, never straying far from their parents. The giant prayer wheels are constantly being spun, either by people walking around them or by someone who had decided to sit close by and ensure it continues to send prayers into the universe. For such a bustling and active location it is surprisingly peaceful. I can see why it is a daily practice to walk there for many people.

The Living Root Bridges of Meghalaya

Last weekend mom and I went off to northeast India to discover the living root bridges for ourselves. A four day trip that may quite possibly be the highlight of my year. In the rainiest area of the world, you have some unique challenges - including how to cross rivers when any supplies you need must be carried in a bag, strap resting on your forehead, as you head down thousands of rock stairs. Needless to say, it is not an easy task. The locals have culitvated a tradition of guiding the roots of certain trees to form bridges; a task that can take several generations to accomplish, but which will last for centuries. This living architecture is what we went to see. In addition to hiking down slick, moss coated rock steps for hours amist the rain forest, an unusual experience for me in India, there were the bridges themselves to amaze me. Up to 95 feet long, each one seemed to have its own unique character. One village has even cultivated a doubledecker bridge. Another is the world's longest. This one, sees to sit in the middle of nowhere, but as we rest at the base we see 5-6 people crossing it on their commute to collect beetle nut or work their fields. The living root bridges really are a unique vision.

Check out this video if you want a bit more information.

A tuktuk ride through Jodhpur

Mom and I just got back from a weekend trip to Jodhpur. Time spent wandering around the fort and then the city searching for the blue part of the blue city. I'm sure I'll post more about that later, but I thought you might enjoy (? is enjoy the right word?) a glimpse of what a tuktuk ride is like in an Indian city. So I took a few minutes of video for you to get motion sick to.  You can see them here and here.

Honoring Aisha

Last week we had an assembly to honor a former student at our school. Aisha was unusual in that she was doing her best to live as close to a normal teenage life while battling SCID (sever combined immune deficiency) and pulmonary fibrosis which had reduced her oxygen intake to 20% of what a normal person would receive. Despite this she was a overwhelmingly positive person who tried to overcome her terminal illness. My first year at here she was enrolled in art and math class; which she attended as frequently as her health would allow. By last year it was intermittent meetings with her beloved art teacher. At graduation last year she gathered her strength to walk across the stage and receive a certificate of attendance with the class that she would have graduated with if it had been possible. She struggled on a daily basis, fighting for more time in the world. Loving art and her dogs. Finding moments to smile about. In fact she presented on just that idea during two TED Ink talks (you can see here and here). Just a few days before she passed on a book of her musing and artwork was published and premiered at  the Jaipur Literature Festival on the day of her death. A few of my favorite quotes are the following:

Some words are worth gold.

Say them while you still can. 

Say sorry. 

Say I forgive you. 

Say thank you. 

Say you are welcome. 

Say I love you. 

Say I love you too.

                               -Aisha Chaudhary 

Having lost something so  big has taught me to appreciate the littlest things. I am blessed that I have my eyes to see teh vividness in the green trees. I am blessed to have my sense of smell, so I can inhale (pun intended) that particular musty stink that hangs over Delhi after a day of rain. I am blesses to have my ears, so I can listen tot he sound of my mother's laughter. I am blessed to have my lips, so I can speak to those I love. I am blessed to have my hands, so I can pain whenever I please. I am blessed to have my legs, so I can still walk on this earth. I must remember that I am blessed.

-Aisha Chaudhary

Upcoming elections

The past few weeks there have been cars and auto rickshaws driving around with speakers playing messages at all hours of the day. It never fails that as I turn off my lights to curl up in bed, one goes right past my house, blaring a message in Hindi. What is going on?

Well it is election weekend in Delhi. An election that I know nothing about...but Adam Rugnetta,  one of the teachers at school creates cartoons for his students every day, and one this week provided a succinct look at why these elections are so important. (Thanks Adam! I don't feel quite so ignorant now.)

You can see more of his work here.

COPE centre

Did you know that Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world per capita, and it wasn't even in the Vietnam war having been officially acknowledged as neutral by an International Agreement signed in 1962 by 15 countries. A neutrality that was not respected for long. During the Vietnam war part of the supply route for the Viet Cong veered into eastern Laos. A route that was heavily bombed by the US attempting to cut into supplies. In addition many planes dropped their bombs on their way back to base rather than go though the process of safely removing them from the planes upon return. What does that mean? It means that there are thousands of bombs that were dropped in Laos that did not explode. Unexploded Ordinances are a huge problem in the country, and somewhere around 25% of villages in the country have to deal with them.  There are two main organizations trying to deal with this situation: UXO Lao works to educate communities, identify bombs and safely decommission them. The COPE center is the only organization in the country that work to provide prosthetics and rehabilitation to victims disabled by unexpected bomb explosions. They are also working to spread the message to the wider community, starting with the COPE visitor centre in a small building at the hospital they work out of.

 I spent my last day in Vientiane at the center, learning a bit more about the situation and what organizations are doing to address it. Housed in a room that amounts to a large shed, the fact that I spent over 2 hours there tells you what a good job they have done of building a place that not only is informative but also evocative. The movies they will play on request provide multiple perspectives of the problem...and the current solutions. (You can watch one here.) The situation really hit home for me, perhaps because I knew my mom was working on the other side of the Vietnam war, providing care for soldiers that were injured too badly to make it back to the US. Perhaps because I know that except for chance it could have been my father involved in the process. Perhaps because of the realization that this is something that happened over 40 years ago but is still affecting life daily for people of all ages. The untold repercussions of war.

However, there was more than that that impressed me about the center. It was a message of hope. The feeling that they are making a difference - without having to import solutions from other countries. They are using local technicians working with local materials to custom make prosthetics for individuals. They ensure that they do not waste material, reusing scraps to create assistive devices for some; melting it back down to add in to the resources available. In fact the organization made such an impression on my that I made a donation when I got home to help them fund their aim of provided the resources and therapy that individuals with disabilities need despite finances.

If you want to educate yourself more:
COPE center website
UXO Lao website

Buddha Park

I spent my Christmas in Laos this year; although I didn't see as much as I had anticipated (for a variety of reasons, not the least of which included that I fractured my foot on Christmas day) there are several things that stand out as memorable from my trip. Buddha park, or Xieng Khuan, is about 25 km outside of Vientiane, and it is definitely memorable. Odd, overwhelming and unique also come to mind. A large green space filled to capacity with concrete sculptures, everywhere you turn there is something different to catch your eye. My favorites included the pumpkin shaped structure with three levels representing hell, earth and heaven which you entered by scrambling through a mouth, a monkey like god eating a head, the oversized statue of a God with crocodile shoes, carrying what appears to be a dead woman with lightbulbs in his eyes, the enormous reclining Buddha and all of the multi-headed statues.

Containing over 200 statues the park was begun in 1958 Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat who was a priest-shaman that clearly had an interesting take on the integration of Hindu and Buddhist belief. It is said that all of the statues on the premises were cast by unskilled workers under his guidance. If that is indeed true, you'd have to admit they did an admirable and noteworthy job. In any case it was definitely a site worth exploring and climbing around.