Kashmiri Kahwa

Last night I was introduced to the wonder of Kashmiri Kahwa. I'm sure you are wondering "How did that happen?" and "What exactly are you talking about?" I joined a few friends at Dilli Haat, an outdoor craft market, where one of them has a scarf seller she is friendly with. I'm sure you can see where this is going. He showed us the best place to eat dinner and then joined us to give us a taste of his home. Now I can say I might have found my favorite drink in India. While I heard some of the legend behind the drink I'm sad to say I can't really remember any of them today. I do remember that we were told part of the name comes from wanting to say "Wah" after drinking a cup. So what is in Kahwa? It is a base of saffron boiled in water, with cardamon and cinammon. Sugar and almond slivers are added to the hot tea and then you are ready to enjoy. There is a rough recipe here if you want to try it for yourself (which I highly recommend).

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! You won't hear from me again until I get back from travels to Cambodia and Bangkok.

Lodi Gardens

After doing a bit of shopping with a friend in the Tibetan market and going to Gandhi Smriti, which happens to be closed every second Saturday, Doreen and I decided we should take advantage of the relatively clear skies and go take a walk in Lodi Gardens. Created in 1939 by the wife of one of the British viceroys, Lady Willingdon, they are quite a large green space (for being in the center of New Delhi) which is well used by families on nice days. As we walked around there were groups of boys playing cricket, several birthday parties going on, a multitude of picnics and plenty of kids chasing after large balloons. I was thrilled just to find some green space where I wasn't bothered because I was a foreigner, and also fascinated by the Lodi and Mughal remains that are scattered around the park. Right by the entrance we used was the tomb of Sikandar Lodi (1517) who was the second ruler in the Lodi dynasty and reigned over the Sultanate of Delhi from 1489-1517. His tomb was enclosed behind some still standing walls and surrounded by a lovely green space. As we walked a little farther we came across a small turret standing alone which is thought to have been a part of old walls no longer standing. Across from there was a cluster of old ruins. The first we came to was the Sheesh Gumbad, a mosque also dating from the Lodi time period, with blue tile finishing and the tombs of an unknown family inside provided space for children to play. If you looked out the main door you could see the Bada Gumbad which the sign said was also from the Lodi time period and served as a gateway of some sort. This building, perched on top of a built up rock pile, sported more detailed etching than the others. A meander down a few more paths brought us to what I could only consider one of the defining sights in Delhi, that I had seen in pictures but could never place, the tomb of Muhammad Shah Sayyid (1445) the last Sultan of the Sayyid dynasty (the dynasty preceding the Lodi dynasty). It is ringed by a row of stick straight trees, an expanse of green and then the hill rises up which holds the tomb. An octagonal shaped tomb it is bounded by an arched walkway and topped by numerous domes. It is a bit inspiring to consider the architecture of past years and just how durable they built their monuments. But mostly it was just nice to be able to take a deep breath and relax in some of Delhi's green space.

Going out for dinner

A yummy meal! (photo from Sharon)

We set off into the small winding streets of downtown Amritsar to find the number one rated restaurant on TripAdvisor, Kesar Da Dhabu. Our taxis took us as far as possible and then, luckily, one of the drivers walked us the rest of the way there. I'm not at all sure we would have found this little hole in the wall without his help. We walked into a completely empty concrete room holding long tables and stools. The guys seemed happy to see us as we set off on a communication adventure to order food (they spoke only Hindi and us only English). We eventually ended up with two bottles of cold water and ordered food - we weren't sure what or how much would come out, but surely it would be good. Quite quickly three trays arrived at the table - food to share between two people on each one. Two rounds of fried bread, hand cracked by the boy serving us, was accompanied by three bowls - a dal fry (lentils) in one, a curried chickpea dish in the second, and a yogurt garlic mix in the last. Sharon and I made quick work of our food practically cleaning out every dish and putting the others to shame. Yum! The rest of the group ended with an almond custard and after much debate ate the silver covering which was not (?) tin foil.

After dinner we went next door to take a glimpse into their kitchen and were warmly invited in and encouraged to take photos. In fact they insisted on a photo of everyone including the dishwasher. We marveled at the huge pots (and ladles) for the dal. Were amused that the men in charge of the bread were seated cross legged on the counter - two working with the dough while the third sat over a sunken vat of hot oil dropping dough in and then fishing it back out with two long sticks. The guy by the door was responsible for the sweets. There were anther couple of men inside - one just peeling a pile of onions and others cooking. They were quite proud of their little operation, which churned out tasty food, while those who were with me were quite glad they hadn't seen the kitchen before we ate. Me, I haven't gotten sick, so it can go down as a delicious and memorable meal.

Jan, Tony and I enjoying our meal (photo from Sharon)