Monday, June 10, 2013

Hunder Monastery

Monastic cells

After a rest, with a few hours left until dinner we decided to take a walk through Hunder village. We set off on a route we hadn't wandered before. As we were turning a corner I happened to look up on the mountainside and spotted what looked to be a string of old monastic cells. Stone one room huts were actually scattered across the hillside. I wonder if that is Hunder monastery that the guidebook so briefly mentions? And how can we get there? We kept walking hoping that maybe the road would curve around and take us there. We've been continually drawn to some of the small concrete paths that veer off from the road and finally decided to follow one. We were excited when it took us by a small field of shrines, but even more thrilled when it led us over the stream and then up to where we wanted to go. Across the main road stood one of the prettiest prayer wheels we have seen. To the left stood a long stupa covered with intricately carved stones. Beyond that pebble stone paths led up to different areas of the mountainside, all of which held a handful of old monastic cells. We climbed one promising looking path for a ways, but due to impending night fall had to turn back before reaching anything of interest...unless you count more carved stones or the view of the field of over 50 white chorten across the river. We were still unclear as to if this was solely an abandoned monastery or still a working one as we began our walk back down to the little footpath. All of a sudden I noticed a monk coming out of a stone house. I guess it is still a monastery! We greeted him with a friendly "Juley" and then he came out of the gate holding a key. Did we want to visit ... something? Oh, yes. If a monk is willing to unlock a door I will follow him to see where it leads. Down some rocks and through a new door led us to a prayer hall that appeared to still be under construction. On the far side a fabric hanging hid a doubly locked door to a four hundred year old temple. Inside, the darkness barely pierced by a few candles, standing behind a glass wall was the most stunning Buddha I've seen this trip. His serious face and prayerful position dominated the space, keeping your attention. "Wow," was an echo inside my head. Look at what we stumbled upon...and we almost didn't go for a walk!

Candle lit face

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Road side advice


One of my favorite things about driving, well okay riding in a car, is to read the roadside signs and see what they share. As we drove out to visit some monasteries outside of Leh I had ample opportunity to take in some of these sage sayings.  There are three categories that these signs can fall into. There are the often amusing reminders to drive safe on the mountainous roads. Which proclaim things like the following:

All will wait, better be late
Caress the urges do not test them
Darling I like you, but not so fast
If you sleep your family will weep
Be Mr. Late then late Mr.
It's a highway not a runway
Bro anytime is safety time
I am curvaceous be careful
Overspeed is a knife that cuts a life
Your hurry is may be a cause to worry your family
And my favorite: Hurry burry spoils the curry

Then there are signs that actually tell me something I didn't know. We passed one today that proclaimed We did it! Guinness World Record. Most trees planted simultaneously. Chang-ga Village. Others just make me wonder what the are referring to, and make want to do some research. Like the one that said The Mountain Tamers. How do you tame a mountain?

The last genre are the signs that actually make you stop and think. That offer some surprising insight into life:

Hard work is the best investment a man can make
Self trust is the essence of heroism
Serve ever, hurt never
Only the best of our friends and the worst of our enemies would like to visit us