Purana Qila

We drive past it at least once a month. A seemingly tumbling down old red brick wall. Out front is a small pond which houses swan paddle boats and other amusements. I never imagined that behind the falling down wall would be another oasis of ancient architecture in Delhi. You'd think I'd have come to expect a green oasis when I enter an archaeological site here, and yet, every time it comes as a surprise. Surprise again, Purana Qila, the location referred to as the sixth city of Delhi was no different. A patchwork of green interspersed with old buildings all surrounded by a 1.6 km wall that was in rather good shape in certain parts and tumbling down in others. A brief oasis from the city, although there was still enough to remind you that you were still in India. We walked around the entire site, checking out the three distinct gates which showed just how the water level of the moat used to reach. The sandstone structures held remnants of their original tile decorations on the small turrets jutting up into the mostly gray sky. We contemplated a walk along the top of the walls in the back section, but decided we wouldn't chance the questionable descent on the other end. Instead choosing to follow a path down towards the lower levels of the fort which revealed broken down pillars and arched walls. A bit farther around to the Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque with its ornate stonework, triple niches in an unenclosed patio and a guard blowing his whistle to remind us to remove our shoes before entering. In the middle of the enclosure, just off the palm tree lined central pathway almost opposite of the grand Bada Darwaza entrance stood the Sher Mandal. Originally an observatory tower built by Sher Shah after he took the fort from Humayan, it was later turned into a library by Humayan when he retook this land. Perhaps, Humayan might have fared better had he not attempted to retake the fort, as this was the source of his death. One day, hearing the call to prayer, he rushed down the steps of the Sher Mandal, falling and injuring himself so badly that he died a few days later. Every time I venture out in this city I am struck by how much history there is hidden behind crumbling down walls.