Sunday, March 3, 2013

The Ellora caves

Monk stepping out

When people asked us where we were going we said "the caves," as if the Ellora and Ajanta Caves are a single entity. It's not true. They are two distinct sites relatively close to each other, albeit with a similar background. The Ellora caves pick up where the Ajanta caves left off, starting off around 600 AD. No longer are the caves solely a Buddhist thing anymore. Distinct sections of this collection of caves belong to Buddhism, Hinduism and the Jain faith. All worked on around the same time they are an early testament to religious tolerance in India.


Another hole

I had no idea what to expect the second day we went out to explore the caves. I knew there were different types of caves based on religion, but somehow I expected to see something almost identical to the day before. Our guide led us into cave number 16, the largest Hindu cave, and my jaw dropped open. Literally. You make it through the entrance of what is not exactly a cave and is more a full temple carved out of the hillside to find a two story structure completely covered in detailed carvings. There are wall sections that retell stories in intricate small carvings. A lower border of elephants and lionsNumerous Hindu gods along the walls. Two pillars standing tall near the remnants of large stone elephants. Everywhere you look there is a detail that catches your eye. What is that up on top? Oh, is that a face blowing wind? I have to admit that I didn't hear much our guide said as I was too busy trying to take it all in. And that's just one cave. There are over 30 caves at Ellora. Although not all of them are as ornate. The Buddhist ones aren't too different from Ajanta, with elaborate facades and simple interiors. The main Jain temple is almost as ornate as the Hindu one, with a still standing stone elephant, two stories of initially decorated walls, numerous (naked) gods on the wall, a spacious second floor with pillars, flowers on the ceiling and more gods carved into the wall. It is actually quite amazing what people were able to do with a set off simple tools and how well they must have been able to picture a final product in their head that took over 100 years to complete.

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