Diwali in Jaisalmer

I took the opportunity of five days off to head to Jaisalmer for the Diwali break. I realized (after a couple of nights of disturbed sleep due to the load bursts of fireworks going off in the middle of the city streets, echoing from the city walls) that this was the first time I had actually spent Diwali in a city that was celebrating it. Usually I head to someplace where I can escape. It was neat though, to see the small traditions that go along with the holiday, and get beyond the overwhelming noise of fireworks that accompany it as well. To see women setting out small oil lamps on their steps to light the night and drive away the darkness of evil spirits. The brightly colored rangoli welcoming the Goddess Lakshmi into homes. The the next morning when I went out early, watching the women carefully shaping mud into designs in front of their doorsteps, adding an incense stick, some rice, flowers or other items to show their wishes for the coming year. Then later, admiring the fancy dress as people took the day to visit their families. Yes, Jaisalmer got a bit crowded with Indian tourists for the holiday, but I am glad that I had the opportunity to see some of the small traditions that accompany the five days celebration.

Happy Independence Day India!

Okay, so I'm a few days late writing this, but Friday was India's Independence Day. At midnight on August 14, 1947 India and Pakistan gained their independence from Britain (interestingly the midnight hour allows India and Pakistan to celebrate their independence on different days - India on the 15th and Pakistan on the 14th). The country's first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, began to rule along with the presence of the British as a Governor General, until a constitution could be written and adopted in 1950 and the Republic of India officially came into existence as the world's largest democracy (and now I know why India celebrates both and Independence day and a Republic day). Independence day is celebrated with flag hoisting ceremonies, colorful decorations and a speech by the current prime minister. However, it is the words of Nehru, that truly celebrate what this day means to India:

"At the stroke of the midnight hour, when the world sleeps, India will awake to life and freedom. A moment comes, which comes but rarely in history, when we step out from the old to the new, when an age ends, and when the soul of a nation, long suppressed, finds utterance..... We end today a period of ill fortune, and India discovers herself again."               -Jawaharlal Nehru

Feast of St Anthony

June 12th was the start of the feast of St. Anthony and a city wide festival of sardines! I'm still not sure what the connection between the two is, although perhaps there are stories of St. Anthony preaching to the fishes. Pat and Gerald had never gone into the city for this so we decided we should make our way into Lisbon. However, we would do so early so as to miss some of the crowds. Once we found an appealing temporary restaurant set up in a courtyard facing the streets we sat down to have our typical festival dinner: grilled sardines (5 each) bread, salad, boiled potatoes and some sort of chorizo starter. There was definitely a party atmosphere going on. I was quite amused to watch the three men manning the grills with sardines on their heads...little did I realize I'd acquire my own sardine hat soon enough and wear it the rest of the evening. We walked around after that; admiring the sardine decorations, colorful hangings, constant people out grilling sardines in the street (my favorite was a man who had a grill shaped like a boat) until we reached an area that was to have a parade...a very stretched out parade that had elaborate costumes, even crazier props to carry and where it was very difficult to find a spot where you could see them pass by much less perform. Quite the experience. We got back just after midnight when the party was probably just starting to hit full swing.