Bird Garden

It seems that even when I'm outside of the US I can't help but find odd ball and quirky things as I travel. Hong Kong was no exception. I was happy with the oversized statues and funky benches that I walked past my first day in the city, but that was topped by the trip I made to check out the bird garden. It probably isn't what you are thinking....this was a small strip of greenspace, with a paved sidewalk through it where people could take their birds (in cages) out for some fresh air. They would walk them in, carrying one to two cages covered in clothes, find a convenient branch or hook, hang the cage up and take off the cloth. Get your birds some fresh air! In the meantime you can sit and chat with your friends while your birds (sort of) enjoy the great outdoors. Reminded me a bit of the woman I used to cross paths with in Savannah, Georgia who would load her large birdcage in a wagon and take her pets for a walk.

Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha

Over the Thanksgiving weekend I had four days to explore Hong Kong. My favorite day was the one that I spend on Lantau Island. After a metro ride (metro! Hurrah for public transportation) I climbed on a cable car to take the trip over the hills...from the window the water and greenery led up and up until off to one side a giant Buddha sat nestled into the side of hill. This 112 foot tall bronze statue is a major attraction and point of religious journey for many Buddhists. The 268 steps up the hillside gave me a chance to contemplate the peacefulness that surrounds the statue, despite the large number of people surrounding me. As I took a stroll around the base of the statue my attention was split between the beautiful views and the smaller bodhvistas, who put off their entry to nirvana to guide others' path and symbolize that journey with gifts that represent the characteristics of charity, morality, patience, zeal, mediation and wisdom.

 

However, the giant Buddha was not the only source of peace in the area. The Po Lin monastery itself was also awe inspiring. The brightly painted outside, showcased the intricate carvings that decorated nearly every surface. The interior focused one's attention on the Buddha again. In addition, a short walk away, was the Wisdom Path...a short figure eight trail that passed by giant (half a tree trunk) poles engraved with Chinese characters. I might not know what they said, but the peaceful setting and impact of the stroll, left me feeling refreshed and at peace. Definitely a good way to embrace being out of Delhi.

Driving to Abu Dhabi

Last week I was back in the United Arab Emirates for this year's junior varsity volleyball tournament. My boys played well, but I have to admit it was a disheartening sixth (out of six) place finish. What was fascinating for me was that this time the school decided to fly us into Dubai and then we took a bus to Abu Dhabi, a 2-3 hour drive. The bonus - a chance to see some of the unusual architecture scattered around Dubai, Abu Dhabi and regions between. There are the twisty tall buildings that dominate the Dubai skyline. Some unusual ones that for some reason made me think of snails or mice. One that looked like a wheel, while another reminded me of the train of a wedding dress. There is always an overwhelming mosque - this time the pure white Sheikh Zayed mosque, along with smaller ones dotted around the city. One thing for sure, it is a big change from the architecture you see in Delhi!

The AES boys and girls jv volleyball teams

The temples of Khajuraho

In a small village in the heart of India lies one of the true gems of Indian history. The temples at Khajuraho are completely covered in intricate carvings. Layer upon layer entice the eye as you stand there looking. Each new angle revealing some new detail. A mix of Hindu and Jain temples, it is a bit shocking in conservative India, to find temples proudly displaying their erotic carvings. Providing a glimpse of different positions and even partners in the stone work. As you wander the grounds each new temple provides some other tidbit that is special - the carved boar under the Varaha Pavillion, camels being pulled along, an elephant tearing apart a person right next to a couple in flagrante delicto, elephants next to Ganesh statues, cow headed people and half male half female individuals, kisses and couplings...and that is almost all on the exterior of the temples. Inside you have tightly enclosed spaces, still filled with carvings, a Hindu or Jain representations taking the center stage, geometric patterns on the ceilings and columns. When you stop to think it is almost too much to take in. What a treasure that has been preserved from the 10th century.

The backwaters of Kerala

Bright houses are nestled behind built up banks. Women wash dishes and clothes on the edge of the canal, a built in step allowing them to stand in the water while they do their work. A few people sit ad fish for small catch off the bank. Clothes hung out to dry reflect in the water. Men paddle dug out canoes full of one thing or another (bananas, grass clippings etc.) on their way to deliver them somewhere.It is pretty easy to see that life revolves around the canals and rivers in the backwaters of Kerala. Taking a boat tour or spending the night on a houseboat is an amazingly relaxing way to explore this area of India, sitting out watching life in the region pass by as you motor down the river. Getting a glimpse of the everyday while not having to worry about anything.

 

I can't recommend the company we went with enough for our night on the houseboat. Lakes & Lagoons is a well run company with excellent boats and great food.

Life on the river

An early morning boat ride is definitely the way to get a taste of what living on the edge of the Ganges river means in Varanasi. A bit like sanctioned voyeurism, it is one of the main activities that is recommended in the city for tourists. I must admit I enjoyed the morning trip more than the evening boat ride, in part because the riverside seemed a bit calmer as everyone was going about their usual morning activities. Families and individuals wading into the water at one of the many ghats to become ritually clean (despite the fact that the water is anything but). Wooden boats floating in the water waiting for tourists to schedule a ride. Washer men out scrubbing sheets and laying them to dry on the concrete steps, creating a patchwork of colors. Some sadhus (holy men) sitting down by the edge for a morning meditation. Pot washers and net menders getting to work. The men at the cremation grounds waiting for the first demand for their services and wood. Just a town getting down to daily life despite the enormous number of people who pass through each year.

Devils Circuit

Last weekend we drove two hours to get to the outskirts of Delhi to take part in the Devils Circuit - a mud run/obstacle course that occurs twice a year here. The drive was so long because we had to get out to the construction site for Wave City, after all where else could you lay down a 5 km track, dig holes, make several pits of mud and in general make a mess of a space? A construction site has the added benefit of already coming with some of its own obstacle like the giant concrete pipes we clambered over and ran through. There we about 12-15 different obstacles to get across, although the benefit of participating in the non-competitive section was that it didn't matter if we chose not to do some. I generally did one section of an obstacle and then skipped the two repeats that followed. I was surprised to find that it wasn't as strenuous of exercise as I had anticipated (perhaps because I walked around too much of it), but I definitely came home covered in mud and with bruises just about everywhere.

Photo op in the middle of the race...Why not? We're not really competing.

We had a group of about 20 teachers and spouses that joined up to do the race together. As if having that many foreigners in one group wasn't enough to attract a lot of attention we also decided to try to win the costume contest (a successful endeavor) - which resulted in us wearing tiger hats, pinning tails to our back and painting some stripes onto our faces. In a way I liked that better...at least we earned the attention we got instead of it just coming our way for existing. It was definitely a lot of fun to go through the race with so many other people, and to be able to identify our group so handily from across the course: "Go tigers!" Good dirty fun for sure.

Nice and clean before the race

After the muddy run

I even ended up on the banner of their face book page! I must admit, the hats have definitely made it easier to find pictures that involve our group!

Real Estate Office

Today I went out to an area that is being developed as a "smart city" for an obstacle course/mud run (more on that at a later date perhaps, but where else but a construction site could you dig pits and make large patches of mud?). Considering that they began in 2011 I can't say that there is much there to encourage people to think about moving out there. It is most definitely still a construction site. About the only thing that appeared complete was the one acre gardens that the different areas will be built around. In no way does it look anything like their advertisements. However, what I found most interesting was that as we were driving out I noticed the real estate "offices" where you could buy into the building, prepaying for an apartment in the development. I just have to ask, would you really trust a real estate agent that works out of a tent on the side of the road?

River obstacles

Our wooden row boat bumps into something with a loud thump. I look over the side and see a bamboo structure floating in the water, a section still solid with mud resembles several arms outreached. A bit of cloth is wrapped around the base. This is what remains of a statue of Durga that got dropped into the river yesterday. It was hard not to notice the groups of devotees that came clapping and chanting their way down the steps of a ghat yesterday evening as we sat to watch the aarti. A group seemed to descend every 5-10 minutes, sometimes one right after another, carrying one to four statues painted up and dressed in finery. The statues started as small as your arm and extended to one and a half the height of the men trying to navigate their way down the steps without endangering their holy cargo. At the bottom they loaded the statue into a boat and set off onto the Ganges river to continue their ceremony for several hours before placing the statue in the Ganges and allowing it to float away. Turns out my visit to Varanasi coincided with the Durga puja.

Berkeley Pit

Who would have thought that both mom and my favorite random stop of the summer would be an abandoned open pit copper mine filled with highly toxic levels of contaminated water? And yet, that is exactly what I am telling you.

 

In the hills just on the edge of Butte, Montana lies what is known as the Berkeley Pit. The pit and other Butte mines were the source of enough copper that you could have paved a four inch deep four lane highway from Butte all the way past Salt Lake City, a distance of over 400 miles. Mining stopped in 1975 and the pumps that kept water out of the mine were turned off in 1982. Since then the mine has been filling with water which is highly acidic and full of heavy metals. Toxic enough to be designated a US Superfund site it is now one of the biggest tourist attractions in Butte.

 

You walk through a tunnel in the rocks to a viewing platform which is well barricaded from the water, ensuring no accidental contact with the water is possible. As soon as you see the water though your mind forgets that this is such a deadly site. Instead you are mesmerized by the bright colors being reflected from the cut edges of the mine and the brilliant blue of the sky dotted by puffy white clouds. Colors which change according to the water level and which metal is most prominent in the water in the current year. Reflections which make you realize you actually aren't sure where the water line is until you look closer. A view which made for possibly my most memorable pictures of the entire trip. Who'd have thought a deadly open pit mine full of water could be so fascinating?

Monsoon

It is finally monsoon season here, although we haven't hard nearly as much rain this year as in years past. I thought you might enjoy some photos of what rain means in Delhi, taken by my friend Tim Steadman. Check out his blog for some amazing pictures of his time in Delhi.

While Delhi hasn't had that much rain compared to a normal year, other parts of India have been hit hard. This year Kashmir has flooded, leaving entire towns struggling to house, feed and care for people. This website gives a bleak look at what the floods have done to Srinagar. School has started a drive to send a bit of help north through A Bridge To Kashmir.

Peace Corps Flashback

With Bradley: then

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting up with my Peace Corps sitemate from my second year in Koundara. It was lovely to find out that even though it had been 11 years (!?!) since we had seen each other the experiences we had shared were enough to make that gap seem much smaller. Being back together, even for a few brief hours, made me think of some of the more unusual experiences I had while in Guinea. So I thought I'd dig back into the letters I wrote home and my journal to share some of the more memorable moments dealing with devils.

and now

15 March 2002

So lately I’ve had more exposure to devils and sorcery than I had expected. It’s been kind of interesting to see what they believe. The first experience was at school. A girl in 8eme went into convulsion fits and started screaming (thank goodness she wasn’t in my class!). Anyways, whenever this happens everything stops at school (yes it’s happened more than once!) because everyone wants to see what is happening. Then somewhere between four and six boys will pick up the girl (it always seems to be a girl) so she’s horizontal and hold her tight enough she can’t really move and carry her away. When I asked about it I was told they take her home because the devils had gotten into her. But apparently there is some special type of liquid you can bathe in and then the devils can’t get in anymore. That part is more than a little unclear to me.

           

There was also an incident with two of the boys who lodge next door to me, which they attribute to sorcery. A couple of nights back I woke up to the boys screaming and pounding on a door – sounding like something serious was after them (my first thought was a snake because they really don’t like snakes here). So Mr. Camara, after much talking back and forth between a closed door (I guess he didn’t want to let in whatever it was) went to look in their room. Where of course he didn’t find anything. The one boy swears something was trying to hold him down, and they’re both quite freaked out now. So they refuse to go back into the room that night, and Mr. Camara finally lets them stay in the house. And now none of the boys will sleep there, so they’ve all found friends houses to stay at. I have to admit that once I figured out what was going on listening in afforded me quite a bit of amusement. One persons saying “mais, il n’y a rien…” the other “mais, il y a eu quelqu’un je ne rentre pas.” Over and over again. However it does give me a better idea of how things could get out of control with something like the witch hunts in Mass. It seems to be one person’s set of beliefs against another’s and some unexplainable, somewhat frightening behavior. Who knew I’d get to have an experience like that here?

12 November 2002

Today school was closed because of the diables (it sounds like a snow day or something). We had not one, not two, but at least 4 girls possessed (I don’t really know what word to use for it) by devils, all within about a 30 minute period. It got to be so much pagaille (craziness) that they finally just sent the kids home at 10:20. Later at the market I heard that it was actually seven girls who “fell” which just seems unreal (I don’t get why its only ever girls). So there has also been talk of them closing school for a day or two because of the devils (would that make them go away?) and also of making a sacrifice to appease the devils. I’m not really sure how all it would work. Apparently that is what they did last year when we had a rash of devil problems. I don’t know if it helped or not as I didn’t even know they did it. There’s just so much I don’t understand about the whole thing. Like who, or what, the diables are exactly, how they enter a person, what effect they have (besides falling down and screaming), how taking the girls to the hospital helps, what a hospital can do about devils anyways. I just don’t get it.

11 February 2003

It’s amazing what Africa leads me to do sometimes. Two nights ago – the night before our [AIDS/HIV peer educator] training started – we were talking about the devils at school again. Well I remembered Brad’s mom had sent him chrism oil (holy oil) and that we had talked about blessing the classrooms with it to keep out the devils. Of course I didn’t remember this until midnight, but since I had freaked out McKenzie with stories about the devils and really didn’t want any girls falling during the formation I decided to go see if Brad wanted to go bless the school with me. He was okay with it so we took off for the school at about 0:15 in the middle of the night – trying not to call attention to ourselves so that we didn’t have to answer any questions. After stopping to protect/bless each other with the oil, arrive we did. And despite feelings of nervousness we started to bless the school. Above each and every classroom door we made a cross with the oil and read psalms. Switching back and forth as we went down the wings. Then since oil was left we also blessed the three trees in the middle of the courtyard and poured the remaining oil at the entrance of the school (the sand pit) saying our own prayers of protection. It seemed kind of funny to be doing this in secret – but even today if you look for it you can see the slight mark of the cross above each door. It seems as if something might be working about our many blessings as no girls fell yesterday or today. But then I guess the only logical way to combat devils is with God (wait did I just say logical? Is there anything logical about any of this?).

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

The second national park of my summer, was a bit unexpected. Unexpected in the sense that I didn't originially have a plan to visit it. When mom and I found ourselves with a few extra days on the leaving side of our trip we decided we might as well head on out early. But where to? A look at the map and mom mentioned that there was one more national park in North Dakota we hadn't hit that wouldn't add too much (what is too much on a road trip that logged over 5,000 miles of driving?) to our trip. And so we headed off, with a plan to hit Devil's Tower National Monument which we hadn't gotten to the last time we were in Wyoming and then head through South Dakota and into North Dakota to spend a day or two around Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Never mind that it was going to be around the 4th of July. An hour of throwing hotel numbers at my mom to call, found us rooms to ensure we wouldn't have to keep driving forever on the holiday.

Usually I have a pretty good idea of what the options are for random stops on our trips, having outsourced much of my exploring to Roadside America, this time we took off before I had any ideas. I found myself scrambling every night to see if there was anything around for us to see. Which is probably why we ended up at the Geographical Center of the US in Belle Fourche, South Dakota as well as the Termesphere Gallery in Spearfish, SD. Devil's Tower was well worth the detail and the hour of two we spend walking around the base of the volcanic rock structure, constantly turning our heads up to glance towards the sky and the top of the monument. I have to admit though, there really isn't a lot when you drive through western South and North Dakota. Perhaps that is why we kept changing our plans as we drove.

Originally we had only planned to visit the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt Park. But when we realized it would be less than a 100 miles out of the way, and it wasn't even noon yet, we altered our mental map and kept heading north to the North Unit. A more remote, and quiet section of the park. We saw perhaps 5 people during the 4 hours we spent in that section. Our attention directed to the natural landscape instead. Cannonball excretions forming in the side of a hill, the rattlesnake that made both of us jump before quickly hurrying away at its warning shake, the endless landscape and bright yellow clover against a brilliant blue sky. The chance to get out, hike a bit (okay, maybe that was a bad idea as mom ended up with a fractured ankle on our first day out rather than just a bad sprain as we had expected), and enjoy clean air. Always one of the goals of my summer vacations.

The next day we headed into the South Unit of the park. A few more people, although still not enough to interrupt our enjoyment of the landscape. I took a 3.5 mile hike through the interior of the park, while mom continued along the road to the viewpoints. We saw a few wild horses and a herd of bison grazing in the clover. A hot, dusty day which made the idea of driving for another 3 days to Glacier National Park just bearable.

Summer escape

Summer is so often an escape for me. One in which I try to get as surrounded by nature as possible, as a way to recover from 10 months in one of the biggest cities in the world. Over the past several years I've been doing that by heading into the US's National Parks. This summer was no different. The main destination this year was Glacier National Park in Montana, where there was no shortage of trails to allow me brief forays away from just about anything that reminded me of civilization (well if you could ignore the bear bells ringing from other hiker's packs). As always it was the little moments that really made the week special, and allowed my spirit to recover. Finding a perfect reflection of the mountains in the lake. Noticing that the sun hit my favorite flower, the bear paw, in just the right manner in that field. Reaching Apikuni falls to find no one else there, making the .8 miles up hill well worth the hard breathing. The marmot that just made me smile. That plant, whose inner growth spoke to the part of me that loves symmetrical, mathematical beauty. The different shades of blue that together form one peaceful landscape. Reaching the third waterfall in one day, and finding I only had to share it with 6 other people. Splurging on high tea at the Prince of Wales hotel across the Canadian border in Waterton Lakes National Park. Just the overall peacefulness of mountains, greenery and water helped me to feel renewed.  

Happy Independence Day India!

Okay, so I'm a few days late writing this, but Friday was India's Independence Day. At midnight on August 14, 1947 India and Pakistan gained their independence from Britain (interestingly the midnight hour allows India and Pakistan to celebrate their independence on different days - India on the 15th and Pakistan on the 14th). The country's first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, began to rule along with the presence of the British as a Governor General, until a constitution could be written and adopted in 1950 and the Republic of India officially came into existence as the world's largest democracy (and now I know why India celebrates both and Independence day and a Republic day). Independence day is celebrated with flag hoisting ceremonies, colorful decorations and a speech by the current prime minister. However, it is the words of Nehru, that truly celebrate what this day means to India:

"At the stroke of the midnight hour, when the world sleeps, India will awake to life and freedom. A moment comes, which comes but rarely in history, when we step out from the old to the new, when an age ends, and when the soul of a nation, long suppressed, finds utterance..... We end today a period of ill fortune, and India discovers herself again."               -Jawaharlal Nehru

Early morning

As I head down the red dirt path, the lush green of monsoon season encroaching upon the space, serenaded by the cries of peacocks, a waft of incense from an early morning trip to a shrine reminds me that not everything is bad about jet lag. An early escape from my apartment allows me to seep back into the rhythm of my corner of Delhi while it is still waking up and the pace is slower. As my feet pound  the ground I find myself letting go, reaching for a type of physical and mental renewal. Preparing myself for the new start that Monday will bring. Yes, I guess I can say that I'm ready for the start of a new school year, my fourth here in Delhi. 

Mini Oasis

One thing I like about walking around my neighborhood is that every once you are surprised; okay, really I'm surprised quite a bit, but I'm talking about the pleasant escape type of surprise. In the middle of a housing block you'll find a square that is completely green. If you walk around it enough there is sure to be a gate on one side that will let you slip inside and escape the city. It is a neighborhood park. Or perhaps I would be better off saying neighborhood garden. There is a usually a path that winds either through the greenery and flowers or around it. A path that only take a few minutes to completely traverse, and yet it is long enough to force you to breathe deep, appreciate the overabundance of nature that can survive if given a little space, and remember that not everything is concrete.

Roadside jobs: ladder maker

One of the roadside jobs here in Delhi that always captures my attention is the ladder maker. His work leaning up against a simple wall, you can see the choices. Do you need a ladder that is 3 feet or 4? Perhaps longer? Just make a stop of the side of the road and pick a wooden one out. I'm sure they can deliver it to you on a bicycle!

Old Excursions

I was having some trouble coming up with something to write about today. After all it is getting close to the end of the school year (just three more weeks until I fly out of India) and a teacher's motivation goes way way way down as you get closer to the end of the year. So I thought I'd write about two spots that I visited a while back on a day trip from Udaipur.

The first is Kumbalgarh Fort. Constructed on the hills of a small town of rural Rajasthan, it boasts an impressive 15 km of walls protecting the fort and the surrounding land - the only wall construction longer is that of the Great Wall of China. This clearly leaves plenty of space inside the walls for construction. Not just of the fort on the top, but also for the 360 temples which are nestled among the grounds. Built in the 15th century it continued to be expanded and improved until the 19th century when it ceased to be occupied. As you can imagine building such an extensive wall has its own host of problems and there is a legend which accompanies the history of this one. It is said that when the ruler was having trouble constructing the wall in the 1400s, a spiritual leader advised that it would be necessary to have a volunteer for a human sacrifice ritually decapitated. A temple should then be built where his head fell, and the walls and fort along the lines of his body. True or not, there is currently a temple at the main gate of the fort to commemorate the sacrifice. 

The second stop on our day trip was the Shri Ranakpur Jain Temple, an ornate multilevel temple built from 1437-1458. After getting rid of any leather we had on ourselves (the Jain believe deeply in not harming other living beings), verifying we were in a pure state, and getting ourselves down to one camera each, we climbed the stairs up into the white structure. Carved with an impressive amount of detail there we pieces to catch the eye every way you turned. While we couldn't approach the main temple platform, there was plenty to attract attention as we wandered around the inside courtyard of the temple. Filled with columns - each one unique, carvings on the ceilings and the walls, the yellow and red flowers providing a striking contrast to the white marble inside. Truly an example of the exquisite architecture that adorns parts of India. 

Feel good moments

About a month ago I was pleased to find out that one of my photos had been accepted into a photography show an auction. When a former parent had mentioned they were still looking for submissions I combed through some of my favorites from the last year and decided that if I wanted one that would be different from the others then the whirling monk would be a good choice. As a contributing artist I also got invited to attend the evening. I was not at all sure what to expect from the Glimpses of Asia, but talked a friend into accompanying me so that I could take a look at what else was chosen. I wasn't planning on buying anything, was more going to get a sense of what people liked in terms of photography here - the answer is those pictures that you always wish you had, but never manage to get...Along the way though I had several realizations that made me feel good about my photo. The first happened when I realized mine was one of just a handful that had a higher starting price (unique, I guess?). The second was when the friend I took with me started talking about a picture, about how maybe she had one of almost a similar quality, and how it brought back so many memories....it turns out she didn't realize I actually had a photo in the show, and the one she liked best was the one I took while we were traveling together last summer in Ladakh. Both things that just made me feel a bit more special. I don't often like to brag, but I have to admit I do think the picture is pretty good!

Chambal

We had a long weekend over Easter, which of course meant a bit more traveling in India. The longer I'm here, the more I find that I crave quiet, natural spaces and so I seem to be doing my best to hit nature reserves and national parks when I have enough time. It turns out that there is a river sanctuary about four hours outside of Delhi (two hours by train and then another two hours drive) and a lovely lodge a slow hour's drive from it. So I headed to Chambal for the weekend. I was excited when I learned that this was one of the regions that has the elusive fresh water dolphin in the river, a species that I believe may be unique to India. Sadly it too proved elusive for us. Instead we saw a large collection of birds, including many I had never heard of before. But then I'm not exactly a bird person. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy seeing the birds, and just being out in a quiet enough area where they will be gathered in numbers is relaxing, I'm not the sort of person that could tell you the name of, well, really, any bird I see. I think that became clear to our naturalist guide as we arrived at the river and he pointed out the apparently rare sight of an Indian skimmer actually skimming the water fishing. Supposedly this is something many people come to see, and we were not showing a full appreciation of the ease with which we got to observe this bird. However the two hours we spent on the river were thoroughly enjoyable with many a different type of bird to be seen: painted storks, black necked storks, Indian pond heron, a variety of ducks...I'd have to get out the checklist so thoughtfully provided by the lodge to tell you any more. And then there were the gharial. A relative to the crocodile, their numbers have dwindled over the years to approximately 235 worldwide, landing them on the critically endangered list. Hard to believe considering the number we saw, but then Chambal is one of the two locations that seem to have successful breeding populations. Gharial are instantly recognizable  with there extended long snout, and the ball on the top of the end of the males...in some ways making them even more intimidating then a normal crocodile. Our wildlife sightings didn't end on the river though, the lodge providing plenty more opportunities on their grounds, including a spotted owlet and a large group of flying foxes that were roosting in a tree just outside our cabin. I definitely got my nature needs met this weekend!

Bateshwar

Along the bank of Yamuna river lies the town of Bateshwar. Mostly rural, supporting the farming communities outside of it, it has one things which makes it a religious center - at least once a year at the same time as the cattle fair....the 101 white washed temples dedicated to Shiva that line one side of the river along a bend. Built here by Raja Badan Singh Bhadauria, these temples set a picturesque scene. As we were there in the off season, it was hard to imagine thousands of people flocking to the ghats along the water's edge, crowding in to celebrate and worship during the month of November. Why did Bateshwar turn into a religious center? Well, legend says that lord Shiva sat down to rest under a banyan tree along the banks of the river. Indeed, the name of the town arises from that instance - Bat-Ishwar meaning the banyan lord. While there is a part of my that doesn't really understand having so many temples to the same god in one place, I must admit it was a peaceful and active complex of temples. As I walked away with the image of white reflected in the water, I could only wonder, how does one decide just which Shiva temple you will worship in? There were a few that seemed to have special traditions, such as the one where wives would go to pray for the husbands' longevity, but others seemed to be remarkable similar, simple rooms with a Shiva lingam in the center. In any case there are plenty of choices for those who make the pilgrimage to Bateshwar.

Appointment with a Tibetan Doctor

Last weekend the opportunity arose to have a consultation with a Tibetan doctor. I decided to go ahead and make an appointment with Dr. Namgyal in part because I was curious and in part because I felt like I'd been dealing with my ankle and knee for so long that maybe it was time to try something different. I really had very little idea of what an appointment with a Tibetan doctor would involve so I was quite relieved when the woman who was hosting the doctor gave me a quick rundown on what to expect...and then it proceeded to go almost exactly according to what she said. It started out with him taking my blood pressure (some things don't change) - although he didn't use both the methods he had instruments for - perhaps he didn't find a problem there with one so saw no need to do it a second time. The next ten to twenty minutes was spent with him reading my pulses at various places on my arm. Different locations telling him different things about the systems in my body and three energies that Tibetan medicine is centered upon. We spent the rest of the time talking, him telling me what he observed, asking for my impression of it before he recommended diet, activity and medicine that could help me balance things out. I must admit I'm a bit skeptical - but then I'm skeptical about modern medicine too in certain ways. However he said enough that resonated with me, that were things I had already been drawn to add into my routines, that it is hard to completely dismiss his findings and recommendations. (Among those was spend more time surrounded by nature, drink cinnamon or mint tea to calm my "crazy monkey mind", and that I have a sensitive heart). I decided if I was going to go through with an appointment I might as well try to do everything he recommended as well as I could. After all, I doubt it will hurt me. And so I've started on a 15 day regiment of Tibetan medicine. I'd been warned by several different people that it is like eating dirt - but select dirt. I have to admit that there is an element of truth to that. In the morning and at lunch I grind up these little brown balls and proceed to try to swallow the resulting powder which takes quite a bit of water. I find a mint afterwards helps to clear some of the taste from my tongue...Before I head to bed I take a powder mixed in warm water to calm me and help me get ready to sleep, and I must admit I haven't been having any problem falling asleep this week! I guess I'll have to wait another ten days or so to see if I feel any difference or am any more balanced. In any case the whole thing has been an experience and given me a lot to think about in terms of my habits as well.

Sulabh International Museum of Toilets

Yes you read the title right. An International Museum of Toilets. Perhaps the only museum of toilets in the world. And it happens to be in Delhi. Well according to our taxi driver, in a village that has been consumed by Delhi. How could you not want to visit it? The museum isn't all that outstanding - although a one room museum that kept our attention for over an hour must be pretty good...what was more impressive is the Sulabh organization. It is an organization that believes that toilets can be a tool for social change - helping to redefine the role of those who were untouchables or are scavengers. Part of their process includes getting more composting toilets which do not require people to clean them out and are actually more sanitary for low water areas than other options. They operate and maintain over 8000 public toilets which are kept impeccably clean and I believe have had a direct impact on health and sanitation in the areas where they have been installed. In fact the courtyard outside of the museum is a showroom of composting latrines - varying in size and price which can be installed.  (see their website for more information)

But back to the museum. The room is full of a variety of posters which share a portion of the history of the toilet. From guidelines to toilet use in Aryan times to poetry written about or on it. Such as this one that was specially inscribed at the bottom of a chamber pot:

I am as polite as ivory, but whiter than it,

Sometimes I am a virgin;

I am a bit delicate and hardly succumb to temptation,

Besides I never dream of being glorified.

      -ordered by King Louis XIV

The walls included humorous posters found in toilets, specialty toilets designed to resemble other objects like a stack of books or an armchair. There was a door made out of human excrement, as well as hard balls made out of the same. And a surprising number of advertisements encouraging people to visit the museum from all over the world. I must say that it is one of the most unusual museums I've ever been in. The sign as we left seemed to sum up their philosophy quite well:

Thoughts that matter:

*Smile you are in Sulabh

*Sanitation is our religion

*Perfect way to conquer worry - pray

*Museums are mirrors of heritage

*Do the very best you can

Buying singing bowls

Over spring break my best friend came out for a visit and we headed to Nepal for the week. While there she was on a mission for her mother - to buy a set of seven nested singing bowls. Traditionally made of a copper mix these bowls are said to date back to the time of the Buddha Shakyamuni (560-480 BC). The deep and rich notes that are produced by the larger bowls are considered to be a help in relaxing, thus allowing a person to slip into a meditative state easier. After the first few days of walking around Kathmandu we were not at all sure that we would be able to find a nested set; there were plenty of places that were selling single bowls but nothing that looked like there would be large enough ones for her. Then we took a wrong turn looking for a restauraunt and stumbled across a small store full of brass and copper products, including an entire wall full of singing bowls of various sizes. Thus begins what turned into about a 45 minute experience of selecting singing bowls (and debating if seven of them would weigh too much for our luggage - not if you carry half of them on). To begin with we asked for a set of seven. The man and his assistant began sorting through piles, trying to find the right sizes, gauging how big we wanted the largest one to be. The first set was too small. The second closer. But wait, shouldn't each successive bowl actually be smaller than the one it is inside of? Can we change this one? But once it looked right we also needed to make sure that they sounded good. After all it would be a shame to carry home 20 pounds of bowls only to discover they aren't pleasing to the ear. That is where the vendor really came in, playing each bowl for us - both with a mallet and a stick; raising them up to our ear and out so that we could hear the difference and insisting we touch them to get a sense of the strong vibrations (as you can see in the video below - or here). In the end we did walk out with a set of seven - plus one for me. How could I resist after that type of shopping experience?

Everyday adventures

Sometimes I'm surprised by just what it is that catches me off guard, and how easy it is to have unexpected adventures. Take this morning for example. Who wouldn't want to be prompted out of bed by a 10 piece band lined up along their neighbor's driveway? Especially if it comes complete with horns and drums? I couldn't resist stepping out onto my balcony and enjoying (hmmm...is that the right word?) the free music for a while. And of course taking a short video.

Or there is the experience of going to a friend's rooftop bbq to find that she had hired a Rajasthan Drum Troupe to perform for a good portion of the evening. Four young boys complete with led lights in a see through drum.

Or the fact that every time I see an elephant on the road it completely makes my day...and makes me wonder about where I have chosen to live.

And how can having my morning taxi weave its way through a herd of cows become everyday ordinary?

It makes you wonder what it would take to be really extraordinary.

National rose garden

Between my mom's visit, minicourse with the high school students and Spring Break with my best friend, I have plenty to write about the upcoming weeks...I thought I'd share a mini excursion that mom and I fit in between my school schedule while she was here.

About a 10 minute walk from the school gate, on the route I drive to school every day, is a fenced in half block that is shockingly empty of buildings. With green grass covering the field and rose plants blooming in a pattern I had wanted to get to this garden but just never worked my way to it. When mom met me at school with two hours of downtime I decided it would be the perfect mini outing to fill the time. I was a bit surprised to find that the garden I wanted to visit was actually the National Rose Garden. Maintained by the Rose Society of India the sign at the entrance shared three aims: to disseminate knowledge of rose and rose growing; to encourage, improve, extend the cultivation of the rose by means of scientific trials; to hold exhibitions and other activities.

I'm not sure how much it reaches those goals, but it was a very pleasant green space to wander around and mom and I had a relaxing time literally stopping to smell the roses. My personal favorites were the orange tinged ones, although the mix of pink, red and yellow added to the garden's colorful appeal. Makes me wonder how many other small delights Delhi has to offer that I've never noticed before.

Jantar Mantar, Delhi edition

While my mom was visiting I took the opportunity to visit several places that I had been wanting to get to but had never managed to actually find someone to accompany me. There was one place, though, that I had been purposely putting off until she returned to visit and that was the Jantar Mantar in Delhi. On her first visit we had explored the one in Jaipur and been captivated by the historical astronomy tools that towered over their small courtyard and had wished we had spent a bit more time soaking up the beautiful lines and scientific amazement that came with our visit. I was excited to take mom with me to see how the smaller Jantar Mantar in the middle of New Delhi would compare to what we had see in Jaipur. Made of red sandstone and white marble the contrast in the instruments make them stand out in the middle of the modern day city. Multi-story business buildings tower over the site and yet your attention is captured by these astronomical instruments that date back to 1724. The constructions truly reflect their name: Jantar means yantar or instrument and Mantar formulae. So Jantar Mantar is a site of formulae instruments. The observatory in Delhi is the first one built by Maharaj Jai Singh and as such is it not quite as ambitious in its instruments. There are four main instruments in Delhi. The towering Samrat Yantra functions as a giant sundial. The pleasantly curved Misra Yantra can determine the shortest and longest day of the year as well as provide the exact moment of noon in various locations. The pair of Ram Yantra with their arched rounded construction can measure the altitude and azimuth of different celestial objects. They come as pair with the open spaces of one corresponding to the solid rays of the other enabling an observer to place any shadow. The Jai Prakash Yantra are also a pair that are perfectly complementary. If you could lay them together no space would exist. It acts as a reflection of the sky above and is said to be so accurate that the other instruments were calibrated according to it. In any case, these ancient astronomical instruments are truly something to behold, even if I still can't quite get my head around how precise they still are.

The Benefits of Fashion

Last night was the second annual Benefits of Fashion show that students at my school organize. Now, I've been to more fashion shows then I ever anticipated thanks to working at schools where students seem to have a desire (and the connections) to pull things like this off, but I have to admit that this one is a step above many that I've been to. Why? To start with the clothes are designed (but not sewn) by students working in groups of three to create three distinct collections. This year the first collection was focused on formal wear, the second collection on a cultural fusion of color and fabrics and the third was inspired by the Crusades. All of the clothing is modeled by other students, and this appeals to me for a couple of reasons...first it means that not everyone is stick thin and an unrealistic role model (although after seeing many of our girls dressed in form fitting clothes I realize how thin many of them are), it also means that there are just as many boys out there as girls. Second it provides an opportunity for many of our students to do something outside of their comfort zone and usual experience. Will they turn in to models, no, but there is a sense of confidence in oneself that can come from successful walking down a spotlit runway while photos are taken of you in front of over a hundred people. The real reason I enjoy this particular fashion show more than others though is that all of the money earned in this rather elegant endeavor goes to support a group that is working towards women's empowerment. This year the recipient is an organization call Work + Shelter which is trying to "create safe spaces in India where women can come to live and work." The following is from their website:

WORK+SHELTER focuses on women’s empowerment and poverty alleviation. Fundamentally, we provide women in India with fair-trade work and, should they need it, a safe place to live with their dependents. Each shelter has a physical location where activities are centralized. 

At our pilot, W+S New Delhi, women are entered into our paid training program where we teach them the skills to create high-quality products for the export market. The only entry prerequisite we have is demonstrated economic need. When the woman completes training and begins to produce for the export market, we increase her pay. The women are paid whether or not the products sell. 

Beyond work and shelter, we regularly confer with the women to ensure their other key needs are met. For example, at W+S New Delhi we are currently assisting one stakeholder to find medical support for her kidney problems. We also actively support the women to ensure children in their family are in school. We are aware of each woman’s unique challenges and actively work with them to overcome them together.

I know that they are working to be able to open up several more shelters for women in need and I have no doubt that our students have helped them out with that goal. When you think about that, it would be hard not to go watch a fashion show!